Christmas in Europe · Denmark

Christmas in Denmark: paper hearts and the lights of Copenhagen, explained for kids and grown-ups

What woven paper hearts are, what the Tivoli Gardens look like in winter and what Danish children do on Christmas Eve.

What does Copenhagen look like at Christmas?

Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark, a city by the sea with canals, bridges and colorful houses. In December, the masts of the boats on the Nyhavn canal are wrapped in fairy lights, and on Strøget, one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe, the shop windows are full of toys and decorations.

At Amalienborg Palace, where the royal family lives, a big Christmas tree is lit, and the royal guards stand watch in front of it in their tall black bearskin hats.

Illustration from the book: the Tivoli Gardens in winter, with the lit-up gate, the carousel, the roller coaster and the Christmas stalls
From the book · Chapter 6, Copenhagen

Tivoli, the Christmas garden

In the heart of the city are the Tivoli Gardens, an amusement park opened in 1843, one of the oldest in the world. In winter, Tivoli fills with thousands of lights, wooden stalls selling sweets and decorated fir trees. The carousel spins, a roller coaster climbs above the trees, and families warm up with hot chocolate.

What are paper hearts?

Paper hearts, called in Danish julehjerter, meaning “Christmas hearts”, are the best-loved Danish decoration. They are made from two strips of paper, usually one red and one white like the Danish flag, woven through each other until they form a checkered heart.

The heart has a handle, like a little basket, so it can hang on the tree or in the window. Many children put a small surprise inside: a sweet, a note or a wish for someone they love. In December, many Danish families gather around the table and weave hearts together.

What can children do in Copenhagen?

  • Stroll through Tivoli, ride the carousel and watch the lights reflected in the garden’s lake.
  • Take a boat trip along the canals, past the colorful houses of Nyhavn.
  • See the royal guards at Amalienborg Palace, in front of the big tree.
  • Buy a woven heart at a Christmas market, or learn to make one themselves.

Two Danish Christmas traditions

Dancing around the tree

On the evening of 24 December, after dinner, the family holds hands and dances in a circle around the tree, singing carols. The tree is decorated with paper hearts, fairy lights and little red-and-white Danish flags, called Dannebrog.

Lucia on the canals

On 13 December, Saint Lucia’s Day, kayaks decorated with lights paddle along the canals of Copenhagen, followed by a boat full of choir singers. The tradition comes from Sweden, and the Danes have turned it into a parade on the water.

A taste of Denmark: Æbleskiver

Æbleskiver, round Danish pancake balls dusted with sugar, next to a mug of alcohol-free gløgg
Æbleskiver, Danish Christmas pancake balls: fluffy golden balls of pancake batter, cooked in a pan with round hollows and eaten warm with jam and powdered sugar. The full recipe, to make together with a grown-up, is in the book, along with an alcohol-free gløgg.

How do you say “Merry Christmas!” in Danish?

Glædelig jul!

Try saying it at dinner on Christmas Eve.

What word did Mira discover here?

In each of the eleven cities of the journey, Mira finds a special word. The word from Copenhagen is written in her Christmas passport, at the end of chapter 6.

Cover of the book Why Would You Need a Christmas Passport?

Why Would You Need a Christmas Passport?

Eleven cities, eleven words and one Christmas journey, from Reykjavík to Vilnius. In paperback and eBook on Amazon.

And you, if you wove a paper heart for someone you love, what surprise would you hide inside?