What does Vilnius look like at Christmas?
Vilnius is the capital of Lithuania. Its Old Town, one of the largest in Eastern Europe, has winding streets, churches with white towers and hidden courtyards. On the hill behind, Gediminas Tower watches over the city, and in December, seen from above, Vilnius looks like a sea of warm lights under the snow.
The Cathedral Square market
Every winter, the Christmas market opens in Cathedral Square, in the heart of the city. Wooden stalls stand between the white cathedral and its bell tower, and in the middle rises the big tree, which Vilnius builds to a new design every year.
What do you find at the market?
- Kūčiukai, tiny poppy-seed biscuits made for Christmas Eve.
- Straw ornaments and handmade decorations.
- Amber jewelry and warm wool mittens.
- A warm berry drink, alcohol-free, with spices.
What can kids do in Vilnius?
- Climb up to Gediminas Tower and look out over the whole snowy city.
- Walk along Pilies Street, with lit shop windows and old houses.
- See St Anne’s Church, a Gothic red-brick church that looks like lace.
- Stand under the big tree in Cathedral Square and guess what it is made of this year.
Two Lithuanian Christmas customs
Kūčios, Christmas Eve dinner
On Christmas Eve, Lithuanian families gather for the dinner called Kūčios. Twelve dishes are put on the table, with no meat and no dairy, and at the end the children eat kūčiukai with poppy milk.
Sodai, the straw gardens
Sodai are geometric straw ornaments hung above the table. In 2023, the craft of making them was added by UNESCO to the list of the world’s cultural heritage.
A taste of Lithuania: kūčiukai and poppy milk
Kūčiukai are small, crunchy biscuits eaten on Christmas Eve, dipped in poppy milk. Their recipes, to make together with an adult, are in the book.
How do you say “Merry Christmas!” in Lithuanian?
Linksmų Kalėdų!
Try saying it at dinner on Christmas Eve.
What word did Mira discover here?
In each of the eleven cities of the journey, Mira finds a special word. The word from Vilnius is written in her Christmas passport, at the end of chapter 11.
