What does Prague look like at Christmas?
Prague is the capital of Czechia, set on the banks of the Vltava river. From above it looks like a sea of red roofs and dark spires, and on the hill above the city stands the castle, with St. Vitus Cathedral. In winter, Charles Bridge and the Gothic towers light up, and the river shines like a silver ribbon.
The Old Town Square market
The Christmas market is held in the Old Town Square, under the two pointed towers of the Týn Church and next to the Old Town Hall with its clock. The wooden stalls stand shoulder to shoulder, the air smells of cinnamon, warm sugar and pine, and carols drift between the painted houses. The market usually runs from late November to early January.
What do you find at the market?
- Glass baubles painted by hand, catching the light like drops of honey.
- Woven stars of golden straw, for the tree at home.
- Nativity scenes carved in wood.
- Wooden puppets, painted and waiting for their strings.
What can you do at the market?
- Watch the Astronomical Clock: every hour, from morning until late evening, the Twelve Apostles pass by its little windows.
- Look for the puppet stalls and watch a puppeteer make them walk and dance.
- Cross Charles Bridge over the Vltava, between thirty statues of saints with snow on their shoulders.
- Look up at St. Vitus Cathedral on the castle hill: at night its lights seem to float above the roofs.
Two Czech Christmas customs
Ježíšek and the little bell
In Czechia, presents are brought by Ježíšek, the Baby Jesus. On Christmas Eve, after dinner, a little bell rings and the children run to the tree.
The star in the apple and the walnut boats
Everyone cuts an apple crosswise: if a star appears in the core, they say the coming year will bring good health. Then small candles set in walnut half-shells float in a bowl of water, and the whole family watches where each little boat drifts.
A taste of Czechia: vánočka
Vánočka is a braided sweet bread with raisins, lemon zest and almonds on top. Its name comes from Vánoce, the Czech word for Christmas, and long ago a coin was sometimes hidden inside. Its recipe, to make together with an adult, is in the book, next to cukroví, the little Christmas cookies.
How do you say “Merry Christmas!” in Czech?
Veselé Vánoce!
Try saying it at dinner on Christmas Eve.
What word did Mira discover here?
In each of the eleven cities of the second journey, Mira finds a special word. The word from Prague is written in her Christmas passport, at the end of chapter 2.
