What does Basel look like at Christmas?
Basel is a city in northern Switzerland, on the Rhine, close to the borders with France and Germany. The wide green river bends through the old town like a crooked arm. On a hill above the water stands the Münster, a red stone church with two towers and a roof of colored tiles that shine green, yellow and red.
The market of two squares
In the old town, the Christmas market spreads over two squares, Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz. Almost 150 wooden huts shine under fir garlands and warm lights. The air smells of honey, cinnamon and roasted almonds. The market usually runs from late November until just before Christmas.
What do you find at the market?
- Läckerli with honey and spices, in painted tins.
- Old glass baubles, set in little wooden boxes on nests of cotton wool.
- Melted cheese on warm bread.
- Warm apple punch with cinnamon and orange, with no alcohol.
What can you do at the market?
- Cross the Rhine by ferry: four little ferries cross the river with no engine. A long cable holds each one and the current does the rest. Ring the bell on the landing and the ferry comes.
- Look for the basilisk, the creature with a rooster’s head and a dragon’s tail that holds the city’s shield, on the green fountains.
- Look out from the Pfalz terrace, behind the Münster, over the Rhine.
- Walk through the forest in the streets: during Advent, almost a hundred tall fir trees stand in the streets and squares of the old town.
Two Swiss Christmas customs
Samichlaus and Schmutzli
On 6 December, Samichlaus, the Swiss Saint Nicholas, visits children with his helper Schmutzli, dressed in a dark hooded robe. A little donkey often comes along. Children receive tangerines, nuts and gingerbread.
The Book of Wishes
Every Advent, a big book of wishes lies open in the courtyard of the red Town Hall. People from the city and visitors from all over the world write their wishes in it.
A taste of Basel: Läckerli and Brunsli
Läckerli are small square cookies with honey, spices, almonds and candied orange peel, covered in a thin sugar glaze. A recipe for them was written down here in 1741. The recipe for Brunsli, the chocolate and almond cookies, to make together with an adult, is in the book.
How do you say “Merry Christmas!” in Swiss German?
Schöni Wiehnachte!
Try saying it at dinner on Christmas Eve.
What word did Mira discover here?
In each of the eleven cities of the second journey, Mira finds a special word. The word from Basel is written in her Christmas passport, at the end of chapter 7.
